| |
 |
|

Q) How
Do I Prepare a Room for Painting?
Q) How Do I Choose Paint?
Q) How Do I Open a Paint Can?
Q) How Do I Prepare Paint?
| |
Q)
How Do I Prepare a Room for Painting?
|
|
| 1) |
Remove whatever
furniture you can and then move what's left into the center
of the room and cover with drop cloths. Use removable
'safety' masking tape around moldings, doors and windows
and use the drop cloths to protect floors and furnishings.
|
| 2) |
If there is a smoke detector in the
room, cover it with a plastic bag and turn off the air
conditioning or heating
|
| 3) |
Sand or scrape loose and flaky paint
with sandpaper and paint scrapers all the way down to
bare surfaces if need be.
|
| 4) |
Using a putty knife, fill all nail
and screw holes with spackling compound and fill cracks
with caulk.
|
| 5) |
For more intensive repairs, use ‘drywall
taping’ techniques. On woodwork, use epoxy filler
(like that used on car bodies). Whatever you use make
sure to sand it down until it matches the area around
it.
|
| 6) |
Wash all surfaces with TSP (Trisodium
Phosphate) to remove grease and dirt. Use paint deglosser
on shiny surfaces such as trim.
|
| 7) |
Rinse everything well with water to
remove the TSP. Allow surfaces to dry thoroughly, and
then dust and vacuum as required.
|
| 8) |
Cut off the power to the room and remove
the cover plates from all electrical fixtures, outlets
and switches. Put bits of masking tape over switch handles
and outlets to protect them from paint. The safe option
is to leave the power off as you paint the room. If you
must turn the power back on then work carefully around
electrical areas.
|
| 9) |
Loosen or remove cover plates from
light fixtures and cover what remains with plastic bags.
Do not to turn on the lights as melting plastic really
stinks! Paint in daylight hours to get maximum lighting
in the room, or use an extension cord to bring in a light
source from somewhere else
|
| 10) |
Remove all of the heating
and air-conditioning vent covers
|
| |
CRC Helpful Tips: |
| |
|
| • |
Tools
you'll need include: putty knives, paint scrapers,
sanding blocks and electric sanders, and even
screwdrivers or dull knives. You may also need
heat guns, paint-stripping chemicals and various
kinds of discs that attach to electric drills.
Use of the above with extreme caution.
|
| |
Back
to Top |
| |
Q)
How Do I Choose Paint? |
|
| |
When it comes to painting the primary choice
is between water-based and oil-based paints. After
that, considerations such as sheen (light reflected
by paint) depend largely on your tastes. Here are
some guides:
|
| 1) |
Select a 100% acrylic latex (water-based)
paints for exterior use. Latex provides a pliable
finish that is reliable for exterior use.
|
| 2) |
For interior purposes select either
latex or oil-based paints |
| 3) |
Use a flat sheen for interior/exterior
walls, A flat sheen provides a non-light-reflective
and a rich finish. This does not apply to Kitchens
and Bathrooms |
| 4) |
Use low-luster (eggshell) sheen
for a flat finish in kitchens and bathrooms. This
is a durable and washable paint good for areas that
get in contact with water. (Semi gloss could also
be applicable here) |
| 5) |
Use a semi gloss, gloss or high-gloss
paint for trim and woodwork. High-gloss is very
light reflective (shiny), and is also easy to clean.
|
| |
|
CRC Helpful Tips:
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
• |
Latex paints are
fast-drying. Only water can be used for thinning
and cleanup. |
|
| |
• |
Latex paints have fewer fumes
and odors compared to oil-based paints. |
|
| |
• |
Oil-based paints are slow-drying
and also require spirits for thinning and cleanup.
|
|
| |
• |
Oil-based paints have strong fumes
but are extremely durable. |
|
| |
• |
Oil-based paints are not normally
used on exteriors because of the adverse effects
of varying weather conditions. |
|
| |
Back to Top |
|
| |
|
| |
Q)
How Do I Open a Paint Can? |
|
| |
Grab a paint-can-opening tool and get to
work! Smaller cans are easy to open, but five-gallon
buckets take a little more effort. There are usually
three different types of lids for five-gallon buckets,
all of which have flanges. |
| |
| For Quarts
and One-Gallon Paint Cans: |
| |
| 1) |
Place a screwdriver
or a paint-can-opening tool between the lid and
edge of the paint can. |
| 2) |
Pry downward around circumference
of the can. |
| 3) |
Remove the lid. |
For Five-Gallon Buckets:
|
| 1) |
Open the plastic
lids by removing the thin plastic strip that holds
the flanges together, pulling the starting tab.
Insert your screwdriver or paint-can-opening tool
under the flanges and pry upward around circumference
of lid. |
| 2) |
Open plastic lids
that don't have a plastic strip by carefully cutting
the flanges apart with sharp scissors or any other
cutting tool. Insert your paint-can-opening tool
under the flanges and pry upward around the circumference
of the lid. |
| 3) |
Open metal lids by
inserting your paint-can-opening tool under the
flanges and prying upward around the circumference
of the lid. |
| Back
to Top |
| |
Q)
How Do I Prepare Paint? |
|
|
Like any aspect of
the painting process, preparation is everything!
|
| 1) |
Use a flat screwdriver
or a paint-can opener to get the lid off a can.
Be gentle otherwise you will bend the lid. Pry up
in a circle until the lid is loose enough to lift
off with your fingers. You may have to go around
a few times. |
| 2) |
Follow the instructions stamped
on the lid to open a 5-gallon bucket. (Or See Above
‘How to Open a Paint Can’)You
may have to use a utility knife to slice through
tabs on the edge of the lid before prying it up.
|
| 3) |
Stir the paint. Simply get a sturdy
stick which is long enough to reach the bottom,
and stir until all the sediment on the bottom has
mixed into the liquid. |
| 4) |
Thin only if absolutely necessary
as most paint is ready to go straight from the can.
If you must thin it, don't thin it any more than
recommended by the manufacturer. Don't thin alkyd
(such as oil-based) paints with water and don't
thin latex (water-based) paints with solvents.
|
| 5) |
Mix the Paint. |
| 6) |
Sometimes small differences in
tint between cans and 5-gallon buckets occur. When
you get near the last 25 percent of the can or bucket,
mix that paint with the next can or bucket so that
lines of different color don't appear.
|
| 7) |
Finished painting? When you're
ready to seal a can, first brush out all the liquid
from the grooves in the top. Then place the lid
on and finally put a piece of newspaper or a rag
over the lid before gently tapping with a hammer.
|
| |
CRC Helpful Tips:
|
| • |
Many paints come
with mildew-blockers in them, but if you have a
serious problem, you can use mildew-blocking additives. |
| • |
Unless you're ready for a more
advanced, nonstandard painting finish, don't add
pigments yourself. Not all paints, additives, and
pigments are compatible with each other. |
| • |
If you're going to do enough painting
to justify it, buy a mixing attachment for an electric
drill. Remember to keep the blades submerged, otherwise
air bubbles may appear in the paint. |
| • |
If you're not going to buy more
than a gallon or two, you can have the paint store
put your cans on their shaking machines. |
Warnings:
|
| |
Don't even
think of adding latex paint with alkyd.
A helpful hint: Oil and water don't mix! |
| |
Back
to Top |
|
|
|
 |
| |
|
|
| |

Welcome to the Universal CRC. Here
you will find answers to some
common painting and paint related
questions to help you with your
purchase and painting decsions
|
|
|
| |
| |

|
|
All
our products are 100% Guaranteed.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|